The Luxire Sports Coat
Recently I had a sports coat made by Luxire. I’ve been happy with the many pairs of pants I have from them and eventually I got curious to try their skills on a sports coat. I sent a jacket to them as a reference for measurements and overall design and…
Reshaping Traditional Inspirations
When it comes to menswear, one could argue that its embodied nature is somewhat stale, lacking the outbursts and creative momentum inherent to women’s fashion. In fact, apart from a select few forward thinking designers and fashion houses who aim to disrupt traditional male silhouettes, proportions and overall garment design, menswear has created deep roots in what regards its origins and sources of inspiration. Nonetheless, this doesn’t necessarily mean that men’s fashion is boring or static for that matter: similarly to a fine bottle of wine, it has been maturing and refining its distinct traits over the years.
One of the aspects that presents a most cyclical nature, is the inspirational sources brands and designers resort to when developing new collections. Albeit driven by a desire to reshape and reinterpret classic garments with a modern take, there is a reminiscent comeback to the eclectic catalyst subjects of the creative process: uniforms (army, navy, etc) workwear, dandies or gentlemen are but a few. Personally, I find this process of continuously traveling back in time to draw inspiration from multiple sources truly fascinating. Focusing on the army/military universe (one of my favourites), and after featuring the Sahariana, this look presents 1ST PAT-RN’s interpretation of the utility jacket, the Tropicale.
One of my purchases during last Pitti, the unique fit and details on the jacket turned quite a few heads during the event. Fully unstructured and featuring their trademark knit twill fabric in a rich camel shade, along with four pockets, strap details and unique buttons made with milk protein, the Tropicale is proof that military garments can be revamped with a tailored look.
Details: Tropicale jacket by 1ST PAT-RN, oxford button down shirt by Our Legacy, twill pants by CAMO, tasseled loafers by Bexley, pocket square by Lobo Marinho, polka dot socks by Pé de Meia, watch by Baume & Mercier and vintage knit tie, suspenders and leather messenger.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
SbN Review: Oliveo Pt. II
Feels like Havana…
This is my second go-around with Oliveo from Makeyourownjeans. They boast the fact that the garment is “70% handmade, 30% machine made” - that’s quite the amount of handwork for an online ‘bespoke’ product. The attention to detail is definitely there, and with some minor adjustments from my first order, this one came out lovely.
I decided to go with a 3/4 lined “Italian Linen” jacket in a beautiful shade of tobacco/cigar-like tone. The jacket features wide notch lapels, 3/2 roll closure, dual vent, 4 functional button cuff, 2 patch pockets, and a slightly structured shoulder. There is a great attention to the detail with the only negative being the stitching of the buttonholes.
When first putting on the jacket, I thought the gorge was a little low and that the shoulder was a little too structured. I am attracted to the Italian flair of a soft shoulder, raised gorge, and a hint of sprezz - but shortly after I got out of that narrow minded outlook that I’ve grown to love, I noticed a different type of feeling that I wasn’t originally looking for when I was designing this jacket.
This jacket took me to another place, a different culture. A lightness suitable for a sunset on a Caribbean beach veering into a night of music and mambo. A color that brought about an aroma of burning cigars with whiskey and rum. Looking in the mirror, looking back into another time where the details seem relevant and fresh. This jacket aligned me in a era that was unfamiliar, but also somewhere I know so much about. Somewhere comfortable. It was Havana, Cuba. The 40’s maybe the 50’s. Its a time that is part of me. But that’s a story for another day.
I regress. Maybe I gave myself too much to time to think about it. Maybe I’m just rambling. I don’t know, but this jacket is solid. I lucked it out it was a warmer Sunday where I could get a quick wear out of it before the temperature dips low for good. Oliveo does so much right, and I look forward to the heat to return so that we can do this again.
Paul Stuart fall..